You need five bits to start: a 1/4” downcut endmill, a 1/8” downcut endmill, a 60° V-bit, a 90° V-bit, and a ball nose for 3D carving. That covers signs, cutting boards, boxes, inlays, and the 3D carves that’ll make you fall in love with your machine. Start with budget bits ($30-40 for a set) and upgrade once you know what you’re doing.

The 5 Bits (And Why Each One)
1. 1/4” Downcut Endmill — Your Workhorse
This is the bit you’ll reach for most. It handles cutting out project shapes, pockets, dadoes, and general material removal. The downcut direction pushes chips down, which gives you a clean top edge on your wood. That’s exactly what you want for anything that’s going to be visible. (We explain the upcut vs downcut difference in detail if you want the full picture.)
You’ll use this for cutting boards, boxes, trays, sign backgrounds, and pretty much any project that involves removing material.

Cuts clean, lasts surprisingly long for the price. The community’s go-to budget pick. Buy two — keep a spare.
2. 1/8” Downcut Endmill — The Detail Bit
Same idea as above, but smaller. The 1/8” gets into tighter corners and handles finer details: ornaments, coasters, intricate cutouts, anything where a 1/4” bit is too bulky.
Important: Most routers only accept 1/4” shanks. You’ll need a 1/4” to 1/8” collet adapter (about $10-15) to run this bit. Don’t discover this after the bit arrives.
Look for one with a 1/4” shank to avoid needing the collet adapter. If you get a 1/8” shank version, grab an adapter at the same time.
3. 60° V-Bit — Fine Lettering and Detail Carving
V-bits create those beautiful carved letters and intricate designs that made you want a CNC in the first place. The 60° angle gives you finer, sharper detail, best for smaller text, intricate patterns, and decorative carving.
If you’re making signs (and you will be, because everyone starts with signs), this is essential.
Yonico V-bits are a community favorite at this price point. Sharp out of the box and hold their edge well in wood.
4. 90° V-Bit — Bold Carving and Larger Signs
The wider 90° angle creates broader, more dramatic grooves. Use this for larger lettering, bold sign work, and decorative chamfers. Where the 60° is a fine-point pen, the 90° is a marker.
Many projects actually use both: the 90° for large letters and the 60° for detail work in the same piece.
Same quality story as the 60° — solid budget pick. Some people grab the Yonico double-ended combo bit that has 60° on one end and 90° on the other (~$15-20).
5. Ball Nose Bit (1/8” or 1/4”) — The Fun One
This is the bit that makes you fall in love with CNC.
A ball nose bit has a rounded tip instead of a flat one, which lets your machine carve 3D shapes: topographic maps, detailed models, organic curves, things that look impossible to make from a flat piece of wood. It’s the 3D printing equivalent for woodworking.
The first time we watched our machine turn a scrap piece of oak into a detailed miniature Hyrule Shield from Zelda was one of the most exciting moments in our early CNC journey. Not always practical, but always impressive. And at $5-15 for a budget one, there’s no reason not to have one ready.
This is the bit that makes you show people what your machine can do.

A 1/8” ball nose gives you great detail on 3D carves. Grab a cheap one to start — you’ll know quickly if 3D carving is your thing, and if it is, you’ll happily upgrade.
Honorable Mention: Surfacing Bit
A 1” or larger surfacing bit flattens your spoilboard (the sacrificial surface your workpiece sits on). It’s important eventually, and some guides list it as day-one essential. Honestly? We didn’t need ours much starting out. Your spoilboard is probably flat enough to get going, and you’ll know when inconsistent cut depths tell you it’s time to flatten.
When that day comes, a $15-25 surfacing bit handles it in one pass. Not urgent, but worth knowing about.
The “Start Cheap” Strategy
The advice you won’t get from bit manufacturers: buy cheap bits first.
Not because cheap bits are better. They’re not. Premium bits from Whiteside and Amana cut cleaner, last longer, and leave a better finish. But you’re going to break bits while learning. You’re going to run wrong feeds and speeds. You’re going to plunge into a clamp because you forgot to check your toolpath.
Break $5 bits while learning, not $30 bits. You’ll also want to pair cheap bits with conservative feeds and speeds while you’re getting the hang of things. Our feeds & speeds calculator remembers your machine and bits so you don’t have to re-enter specs every time.
The SpeTool WD-3 starter set (~$30-40) includes a downcut, an upcut, a 1/8” bit, and both V-bit angles. It’s not our final five, but it’s close, and it’s hard to argue with the price for a learning set.

The r/hobbycnc community is near-unanimous on this: “Buy a 10 pack of single flute bits from Amazon. As you develop your skill, you’ll understand when to upgrade and why.” One user on Sawmill Creek tested SpeTool against Whiteside head-to-head: “SpeTool cuts equally well and lasts just as long, for 1/3 to 1/2 the cost.”
When to Upgrade
You’ll know it’s time when:
- You’re working with expensive material. A dull budget bit ruining a $15/board-foot walnut slab costs more than the premium bit would have.
- You’re selling what you make. Customers notice finish quality even if they can’t articulate why. (We cover what actually sells in our CNC projects that sell guide.)
- You’re tired of sanding. Quality bits leave cleaner cuts. One test showed Whiteside bits reducing post-cut sanding by 65% compared to budget alternatives.
- A specific bit keeps wearing out. If you’re replacing the same 1/4” downcut every few weeks, buy one Whiteside ($18-22) and see how long it lasts.
The upgrade path most people follow:
- Budget everything while learning (months 1-3)
- Upgrade your most-used bit to Whiteside or Amana (months 3-6)
- Gradually replace bits as budget ones wear out (ongoing)
- Keep a stash of cheap bits for experiments and new materials
The community’s favorite premium bit. When you’re ready to upgrade your workhorse, this is where most people land. Can be resharpened multiple times, which makes the per-cut cost competitive with budget bits over time.
What You Don’t Need (Yet)
Resist the urge to buy these on day one:
- Compression bits — useful for plywood through-cuts, but a downcut handles most beginner work
- Specialty profile bits — roundover, ogee, thumbnail… you’ll know when you need these
- 50-piece sets from Amazon — full of sizes you’ll never use. Buy the 5 you need.
| Bit | Buy Now | Buy Later | Skip |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1/4” downcut endmill | ✓ | ||
| 1/8” downcut endmill | ✓ | ||
| 60° V-bit | ✓ | ||
| 90° V-bit | ✓ | ||
| Ball nose (1/8” or 1/4”) | ✓ | ||
| Surfacing bit | ✓ | ||
| Compression bit | ✓ | ||
| 1/4” upcut endmill | ✓ | ||
| Specialty profiles | ✓ | ||
| 50-piece Amazon set | ✓ |
Your Shopping List
Pick your comfort level and order today. You can be cutting this weekend.
Budget start (~$50-70):
- SpeTool WD-3 starter set (downcut + upcut + V-bits): ~$30-40
- 1/8” ball nose endmill: ~$5-15
- 1/4” to 1/8” collet adapter: ~$10-15
This is what most of us started with. No shame in it. These bits cut real projects from day one.
Buy-it-right start (~$110-140):
- IDC Woodcraft 6-Piece Essential Set (endmills + V-bits + collet adapter + feeds/speeds guide): ~$80-100
- 1/8” ball nose endmill: ~$5-15
- Extra 1/4” downcut (backup): ~$15
The IDC set is more polished and comes with beginner-friendly extras, including a feeds-and-speeds cheat card that lives next to the machine. If you want to skip the early “what setting do I use?” fumbling, it’s worth the extra money.
Either way, you’ll be making signs, boxes, and 3D carvings within your first week. The bits are the easy part. If you haven’t picked a machine yet, our beginner router guide covers the best options, and we break down the true first-year cost so you can budget realistically.
We don't write in a vacuum. Here's what we studied, what we trust, and why.
Multiple threads over several years consistently recommend the same 4-5 bit types for beginners. The “start cheap” advice is near-universal. Great source for real-world brand comparisons from people who’ve actually used them.
Beginner-focused bit company with solid educational content. They sell bits (so factor that in), but their explanation of why a surfacing bit matters is the clearest we’ve found.
Real head-to-head comparison from a community member who tested budget vs premium bits on the same material. Surprisingly close results for most hobby applications.